Reading material for those who love the camping life

By: Harald Vingelsgaard
Caravan and Caravan magazine, No. 5. October 2017

Meeting with the musk in Dovrefjell

Join and meet the musk in Dovrefjell. And when the trip is over, you can have a meal of musk for dinner.
  • Hi! A cyclist stops us on the desolate gravel road in the mountains.
  • Be careful! A muskus is only five meters from the roadside, on the left, at this hill, he says, pointing at a little hundred yards from the place where we stand.

We are on a bike ride, alone, across Dovrefjell, on roads that are so bad that it is hardly possible to ride them. Far from car traffic. We only hear some birds that tickle some bright tones over us. The sun is shining, it's hot. But it's a cool move in the mountain air. The cycle list continues. When we think of what he said that the muskus is adjacent to the roadside, we know extra dunking in the heart. Voltage. A little fear. Should we take the chance to ride on? Or should we turn and ride back to the car? We talked to many musk scientists, locals, before this trip, and learned a little about what we should do in different situations in the face of the animal.


We cycle very carefully and follow carefully on the left side of the road because it is on the side of the animal. Oj. There is a musk in front of us next to the road. The animal rises and goes a little slowly down the valley, we breathe relieved and know that the danger is over. We ride on quietly. But the muskets move fast. A few minutes later, we suddenly see three animals far to the left, a mosquito calf and two adult animals. The mosques walk on the mossy and rocky mountains. They stop a bit, turn to us, but keep moving forward, fortunately. Nobody blows the nose so it sounds like they're milling. No one throats head to side. No scratches in the ground with your feet. In other words, the animals do not indicate that they will attack us.


We roll a little farther on the two-wheel now, farther and farther from the mosques, soon they are so far down to the river that we can not see them. We breathe relieved. The rocks descend on the massive Dovrefjell. With a lot of luggage in the bicycle bag it is a bit difficult to step up the next hill. But soon there is a snail downhill across the mountain. We have a long long stretch ahead of us on the road. Oj. We notice something big black on a snow. What could it be? Mosquito on a snow And that's right. As we approach the snow, below the road on the left, we see two mosquitoes lying down and relaxing on the snow. They cool down.

The mosquito fighting

After a while, both muskets travel on snowfonna. They walk towards each other with calm steps. Soon they are so close to each other that the snout meets the muzzle. Bang. The mosques hit the horns against each other! Playing on snowfonna! Seconds later they go slow and slow down towards the river. We have witnessed something very special. As the musk disappears behind us, we continue to ride a "big ring road" in Dovrefjell, about four miles long, where it used to be a military shooting field.


Soon we are on top of a long, steep and very heavy hill. No musk. No people to see. Quiet and peaceful. Now we are on our way back to Hjerkinn and come to some sights at Grisungvatni. At one of the sights we notice a musk that has difficulty walking. A woman who is out with her dog has noticed the animal several times.

  • The mosque has hurt one hind leg, "she said calmly, completely unfit. She is used to these animals in the mountains.

The mosque is hungry. It grabs both grass and small bushes. The mosquito is very fond of squash. This musk has a lot of white fur on the back, so the other animals on the mountain were not like that. Winter Coat. The animal is so damaged that it has not been possible to get rid of the winter coat, even in the middle of summer.

  • Good luck, says seterbudeia.

We step up a long hill, rolling down into a valley, up another hill that is even longer than the first. This is how the last part of the trip continues. Good workout. Oj. We notice another musk on the right side of the road, far, far ahead of us, maybe as much as a mile away in an area called Vålåsjøhøe. The animal runs in full speed uphill and into the road, now with two mosquito calves and other adult animals. They will be standing on the road where we will ride a bike!

Superfast animals

We steer away! We carry the bike out into the terrain and go halfway around the animals, not to disturb them, and not least to avoid being attacked. The muskets look so cozy. But they have a top speed of 60 kilometers per hour. And they can attack people if they feel threatened. A person died of mosquito attacks in Oppdal in the early 1960 century. Since that time, the mosque has not taken human life, but more people are injured because they have provoked the animals. In a safe distance to the giant muskets, we go back to the road and ride on the bike. A mile later we are back to the car at Hjerkinn. We have been out for eight hours in a fantastic mountain with incredible animals. Musk. For some animals.

The mosque was shot

Two days after we had been on a mosquito safari, we learned that the muscular animal with the injured foot was shot. The animal was so bad that it had to be killed, says Tord Bretten, the overseer of the Norwegian Nature Conservation Authority. Killed animals are sold to among others Kongsvold Fjeldstue, which serves musk meat to its guests. «Blueberry gravy mousse fillet» is a starter in their eight course dinner.


  • There are about 320 muskos on Dovrefjell. 21 musk animals were imported from Greenland and put on Dovrefjell in the 1947 to 1953 period.
  • The mosquito on Dovrefjell can be over 500 kilos.
  • Several thousand tourists watch mosques on Dovrefjell every year.
  • Mountain Experience is one of the companies that have walking for a few hours. It is almost guaranteed to see the musk.
  • Moscow is peaceful animals. We will behave properly, respectfully and politely, and stay more than 200 meters away, "said Terje Rian, who has been a guide for 10 years.
  • No people have been seriously injured by musk in recent years. In 1981, an Italian got a horn of musk in his thigh because he walked too close to the animal. A person was stabbed to death by a musk in the early 1960 century. This happened in Oppdal, the animal had confused it.

Camping Tips

If you are on the move by caravan or caravan, there are many opportunities to enjoy life at Dovrefjell, whether you come from the south or from the north or drive through Folldal. You can choose from high standard lodgings and more traditional campsites, or take a day's stop at one of the many picnic areas of E6 or the 29 highway in the mountains.

Hjerkinn is a small place on Dovrefjell, between Oppdal and Dombås. Hjerkinn is located along the E6, the main traffic artery between Oslo and Trondheim.

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