Reading material for those who love the camping life

Text and photo: Magne Reigstad
Motorhome and Caravan magazine, No. 3, 2015 June

Cuxhaven in Germany: Almost dry land on the ocean floor

It's a weird experience walking on the ocean floor in sandals, and since we are in German waters is of course possible to buy a beer middle of the fjord.

The ruler disciplined morgentravelhet down by the beach in the Sahlenburg. From here starts the caravans of horses in tandem with carts full of tourists, and here herds people on the ground around the guides that will lead them safely across the sea to the island Neuwerk located as far away as the eye can see.

The tide manages all activities and the Wadden Sea. Long tables are posted at key locations. Anyone who would walk in the Wadden - Wadden Sea, must know when the ebb and flow switches. The tide follows inexorably by its own rhythm, and no prudent challenger tide. Coachmen and horses calculates just time enough to turn the island and trot safely back to the mainland.

Horse-drawn engaged in this traffic are painted in Guild colors and equipped with large wheels and good suspension. They are filled to capacity with expectant tourists. The logistics and discipline in tribulation impresses. Buses with guests from surrounding hotels timber cargo and disappears, while desperate motorists hunt parking and hope to catch march. Wadden's tourism industry in a unique seascape cabinets.

solid Gamper

We are excited about the hike in the fussiest hiking we've ever walked in. But we have chosen the right footwear? Several sets of sneakers, others like us, spare sandals - while Friskus start barefoot. So putting kl. 10-demise of moving accurately enough. Hunks - drawn by a solid tandem arbeidsgamper, paws home wins out in the mud for another trip / return Neuwerk.

Our Watts führer Kai call together migrants in their group, and ask entourage bring enough water. Today the sun will warm from a cloudless sky. - The trip will take well over three hours, so each person needs at least one gallon of water, he explains, and recommend a final lavatory. There is little to hide behind for those who need the middle of the Wadden Sea.

safety first

Group leader reports avmarsj to rescue station. He is endowed with both radio and ropes. There tampered not with safety on the trail is never so 3 flat. North Sea and North Sea weather is capricious matters here as the Norwegian coast, whatever the season. Seabed feels a bit slick the first tentative steps, but after a few hundred meters relaxes muscles and it is just wonderful to labbe beyond the vastness. The gurgling and sucking, and the black mud when sometimes up to their ankles. Some we cross small streams that washes sandals clean. We pinch ourselves in the arm again and again and muttered: - We are heading out into the North Sea, and here it at high tide swimming small fish and sail boats.

Kai is authorized guide and retired sea captain with long experience in these waters. Now he has leisure enough to cultivate the hobby, wildlife in the Wadden Sea - while he gets plenty of exercise and healthful sea air. He collects insects up from the mud, creatures that are invisible to us. Hobby zoologist explains in detail how the crabs adapts when they should ensure generations walking in the middle of World Heritage.

Gigantic World

Wadden Sea or the Wadden arrived at UNESCO in 2009, and visitors must behave accordingly. Wadden Sea extends 450 kilometers from Blåvandshuk in Denmark and southwest to Den Helder in the Netherlands. Step by step becomes Sahlenburg more and more away, but we are not alone on the småbølgete gjørmehav. A few hundred meters on the port side follows horse the ride their own tracks in a seemingly endless stream. It must stay very many coachmen and even more horses on farms around Sahlenburg.

Wadden is a paradise for riders, and we passed by beautiful and muscular carriages stretching out at full gallop. What a feeling of freedom it must give the rider to know that ahead lies several kilometers flat for at low tide. Riders playing alone out here have enough tidal rhythm in the head. A good option for visitors horse saved, the group tours on horseback.

Øltraktor middle of the fjord

Kais group must keep a steady speed to catch the boat from Neuwerk back to Cuxhaven. Well we chose SPF 15 on legs and arms. And for a North Sea weather! A few hours walk from the shoreline feels neither onshore wind or fralandsvind. We must regularly resort to the bottle where it decreases faster than we like. We still have half an hour left, and in small streams out here runs only saline. Then it's gaze captures the rescue, in the direction England stands a tractor with beer service in tow. Typical German.

But what we thirst pulls a sigh of relief, manages Kai procession with authoritative movements outside the mobile beer taps at an approximately 50 meters wide "offshore thick." We'll finally washed the mud off your legs, and Kai leads the flock like a Moses up on a ridge which is a treacherous sandbar at high tide. It is probably too easy to sail his ship aground in these waters. Neuwerk and lighthouse subscribing clearer in the flor thin haze. We log in us the rest of the water. We assume that it is an open Imbiss on the mainland, but two polder Norwegians scout vain for Imbiss sign. The Germans, however, has set up sinks so we can flush sandals and legs. The solution to the near panic thirst are storming into the restaurant Zum Anker, hailing a waiter serving us two bottles over priced water in champagne coolers.

Few residents

All the 36 resident on the three-square-mile Neuwerk tourism has as main source of income, and the hotels are mostly fully booked throughout the year, according to the guide. We dare guess that guests are served much extremely local food from farms on the island, whether they are staying at a regular hotel or in the old lighthouse.

Route boat MS "Flipper" transports us to zigzag between sandbanks and stakes back to Cuxhaven. On board there is a plentiful supply of both ice cream, burgers, hot dogs and drinks. Here are also sold tickets for the bus trip back to Sahlenburg. Watch as this announced over the ship's loudspeaker. We bought our tickets for the guided tour at the tourist information, but the tour package did not include the return bus. Therefore we were involuntary freeloaders.

There are plenty of campsites along this coastal strip. We settled in Sahlenburg at Campingplatz Achtern Huus ( The service at the reception was excellent and every morning there were fresh rolls and newspaper for sale. The standard of toilet and shower was ok. The nearest shopping center was just a pleasant walk away, and to the North Sea and the endless beaches modest four flat bike kilometers.

culinary barn

Cycle also leads to Cuxhaven. This is a port city with a long tradition. We Western Norwegian recalls the time it went ferry between Bergen and Cuxhaven. Parts of the city center is a delightful maze of manicured alleyways. Just outside the downtown core is the city beach, a giant green hill from the top of the dyke towards the harbor promenade. It's always nice to go to a restaurant in Germany. The food is good and prices unmitigated pleasure. Just outside the gate to Campingplatz Achtern Huus is a restaurant decorated in a former barn. It's called naturally Kuhlinaria, and food and drapes do not disgrace the name. We topped our stay on the eve of the North Sea with a culinary experience.

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